"Before you can search for truth, you must be interested in finding it." -Miroslav Volf

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Holiday Travel Phase Four: Guangzhou

I was in Guangzhou from the 11th to the 14th, staying at a Holiday Inn...with a sauna! It was nice to have such comforts, I'll confess, after six days of seafood and small towns. Guangzhou was fun...not as captivating as Shanghai, but interesting nonetheless: a city with a rich history, a gorgeous waterfront, a busy pace of life, a slightly international feel (lots of Africans, especially), and some hidden gems to be found as I spent a lot of time wandering through the city, usually with a plan but a loose plan, hoping to discover sites of interest by surprise.

At the waterfront of the Pearl River, cutting through the center of the city. It felt a bit like Portland, actually, especially with its numerous bridges.


How great is this? This is from Shamian Island, a very old part of Guangzhou dominated by Victorian-style architecture. A Seattle-based company, a tropical setting, old British building, China. I love this sort of style-blending.


My favorite in a series of unique statues.


The Sleeping Wood...a pub near my hotel where I found delicious chicken burritos. It reminded me a lot of a Mcmenamins, actually. Since I get plenty of Chinese food back in Xiaogan, I tried to cherish the American & European food while it was accessible.


One of several busy streets lined with vendors selling flowers, kumquats (Guangzhou-ites love their kumquats, it seems), spinny-wheel-on-a-stick's (better name?), and oversize tiger claw mittens (year of the tiger after all...supposedly a bad year to have children...tigers are trouble).


From Yuexiu Park, a massive park in the center of the city. I love the two monks here, who appear to be holding hands.


Another, more colorful glimpse of Yuexiu.


A dinner cruise on the Pearl River. The scenery was gorgeous, with all the buildings colorfully lit up. The food was disappointing. I hit the Sleeping Wood afterwards for another chicken burrito.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Holiday Travel Phase Three: Xiangshan & Tiancu

This was a different but special phase of this trip, nestled in between stays in larger cities in cozy hotels. I stayed three nights in Xiangshan with the family of Anna (one of my students), followed by three nights in Tiancu with the family of Ruby (a student at my university, but not my student). In both places I was spoiled with great hospitality, challenged to be experimental and brave in trying seafood, had a special time bonding with both students, and enriched by some wonderful scenery.

Some pics...

The tower at the end of a lengthy hike with Anna and the Triplets (so named because...they were born on the same day).

In a fake grove of mysterious trees, at a huge outdoor film/TV studio.


Anna's mom and her wonderful cooking. Some of the food on the table was alive and squirming only an hour or so before this picture was taken.

Appreciate this picture, or mock it...I welcome both responses. This was at a beach resort...my first glimpse of the ocean since last summer.

Anna and I after a lengthy hike around Shipu, an ancient city on a hill. This is overlooking the wharf area we'd visited earlier.


Staring at the ocean. Mightily staring at the ocean.

Ruby's cousin, me, Ruby, Anna (who came with me to Tiancu to visit Ruby) outside a temple in a mountainous area. Sorry for showing so much skin.


They really encouraged us to care for our surroundings here.

The peak of our hike. It was a gorgeous day, and glorious to feel heat...to sweat.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Holiday Travel Phase Two: Shanghai

My sense of wonder, the way I’m working with a loose plan but improvising on some of the details as I go, and the pleasure of meeting various “characters” along the way—these things make this trip comparable in ways to my excursions through central Europe in ’07 and through South America in ’08. This trip has been fun, but educational and perspective-expanding as well, in that it has given me a fuller picture of China: beyond just small-town Xiaogan (only 400,000 people after all) and into big international city life in Shanghai and fishing village life in Xiangshan.


Shanghai…wow. It is one of the more fascinating cities I’ve visited. I’ve never been to New York, but I imagine the feeling of wandering through its streets for the first time is similar to that of navigating Shanghai. Shanghai fascinates not only with what is without a doubt the most creative and diverse modern architecture I’ve ever seen, but also its natural blend of old and new in many parts of the cities. While in places like Prague or Venice, I felt the enchantment of these cities; I think in Shanghai I felt the city’s excitement, a liveliness that captivated me in a different way than these other places.


A summary in pictures…


This was the afternoon worship service of the monks who live and work at the Jade Buddha Temple, one of the hot tourist spots in Shanghai. It was a beautiful and peaceful setting, with elaborate artwork and design. What made this temple especially interesting was that I was able to people-watch a bit and observe numerous worshippers coming to light incense or bow or give money or ask for blessings from the numerous buddhas (all offering different kinds of blessing or meeting different "needs") situated around the temple area. I also enjoyed a lengthy conversation with Craig, a Chinese man who worked at the temple. We had an engaging discussion about our respective religious beliefs, he very intrigued about my Christian faith and what being a pastor looks like, and I very curious about the richness of Buddhism and the level of devotion among the Chinese people, especially among younger people. Which is surprisingly high, according to him...I think maybe there was an era where religion was discouraged as a threat to communist ideals but, as China has changed over time, it has made a place for its cherished ancient religions once again. It was a great dialogue, reminding me again of the treasures in other religions that might enhance our own experience of God and the Christian mission, treasures we tend to miss for whatever reason...some kind of fear, maybe...maybe misunderstanding of where real "evil" is found...or maybe just lack of curiosity.


The prominent structure here is the Pearl TV Tower, overshadowing many other unique buildings on the far side of the river, which you might notice if you look close enough.


The Bund. The famous waterfront street, a distinctly different style from both modern and ancient structures laden throughout the city; this is much more an echo of colonial European influence in Shanghai. Also, many interesting areas of the city were unfortunately under construction in preparation for the World Expo beginning this summer, such as the lengthy promenade along the water.


Nothing too flashy here, other than some interesting brickwork and kind of a quaint feel; I show this because this is the site of the first congress of the communist party in China, led of course by Chairman Mao. There was a nice little museum inside.


Xin Tian Di. This is a popular hub for young Chinese and expats, a neighborhood of restaurants with an international flair. There were Italian, German, Latin, and Thai restaurants, even a Cold Stone. If I lived in Shanghai, I would definitely hang here a lot, as a lot of the restaurants also have live music at night. It’s also a great place to meet people, with plenty of Americans and Europeans and English-speaking Chinese.


Nanjing Rd. A lengthy commercial walking street, a shopper’s paradise, and for me…well…nice to look at. Polished, classy, and lively.


Yuyuan Garden. A gorgeous, ancient park area with a lot of elaborate “rock art” and areas separated by wall and rock designated for contemplation and relaxation, theatrical performance, study, meeting—used for all these things in the past, now mostly a tourist site.


This captures the blend of Shanghai's architecture, with three distinct styles seen here.


Love the blend of ancient and modern here. I passed on DQ, opted for Starbucks.


I have no idea what this place is or WHY it is…but it is.


A shot from the Shanghai Museum, considered the best museum in China. They had some great exhibits of pieces throughout China’s many dynasties, including money, sculpture, weaponry, calligraphy, painting, jade, furniture, and—of course—china.


A collage of skyscraper shots.


Live music at The Paulaner, a German restaurant in Xin Tian Di, on my last night in Shanghai. The all-Philipino band played a variety of American tunes, mostly 70s rock and disco. Talk about a multicultural experience! All enjoyed with an old friend—German wheat beer.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Holiday Travel Phase One: Wuhan

I've been in Shanghai the last several days, having an incredible time. But going back to last week, here are some pictures of how I've been spending the winter holiday thus far...


With Ann and Dorothy at a big mixer attended by the American Consul General for Wuhan and numerous business people looking to make connections. For the three of us, it was a chance to attend a ritzy party with free drinks and food (tacos, pasta, cheesecake, all the comforts of home).


The famous Yellow Crane Tower.


A large bell.


Pizza with students (first time for some).


Visiting Mo Shan (Mo Hill), a huge park with an array of sculptures set throughout the area.


A large head.
I look forward to posting some pics of Shanghai...it is one of the most fascinating and exciting cities I've ever visited (hands down my favorite in China). I'm, sadly, leaving Shanghai today (been here since Tuesday) and heading to Ningbo to stay with a student's family. All for now!

Friday, January 29, 2010

A Story

The first week of my winter holiday has been nice, highlighted by a few days in Wuhan visiting some of its more famous sites, including the Yellow Crane Tower and Mo Shan (Mo Hill). But before my blog shifts in the coming weeks to recaps of my holiday escapades, I’d like to recall one particular happening from the end of the term.

Something significant happened (or is happening) outside of the classroom involving some of my students that has challenged me but also left me a bit dumbfounded. I write with a bit of hesitancy, because this is in ways resolved and unresolved, and full of complexities that make a right course of action—a godly course of action—far more ambiguous than I’d like it to be. The whole thing has certainly challenged and stretched me.

A couple weeks ago, I ran into Daisy (not her real name), one of my students, at the noodle “shack” I frequent. I joined her and asked her how her lip was doing. She had missed class one day the week before, then came to the next class with a mask partially covering her face, apparently because she had to go to the hospital to get stitches for her lip. She didn’t say much and wouldn’t say what happened. So I asked her again, at lunch. After a deep sigh, she explained.

Daisy lives off campus with two other girls. Additionally, Daisy’s roommates both have boyfriends who practically live there but don’t pay rent. This has bothered Daisy for some time, partly because of the mooching, but more so because she sees the unhealthiness of these relationships, especially that of one of her roommates and very close friend, Jill (also not real name)—also one of my students. Daisy has a certain depth of understanding that really does set her apart from some of her peers.

So Daisy doesn’t like the boyfriend of Jill, and it’s known. Apparently he is controlling and abusive—emotionally and physically. So, in a moment of clarity or something, Jill broke up with her boyfriend—seemingly a victorious moment. The guy came over to the house, and got in shouting match with Daisy, who among other things, told him to leave the house. He got so angry, that he picked up a small table, and whacked Daisy in the face.

I was absolutely stunned. At first I didn’t know what to feel. This was a very new scenario for me. I know this stuff happens, but never has it happened to someone about whom I care so much. I was livid. This may surprise some of you who see me as rather peaceable, but I was ready to find him and beat the **** out of him. Maybe get some of my student entourage and throw a bag over his head and take him in a dark alley. I craved vengeance.

But perhaps I am rather peaceable because that didn’t happen, for several reasons. After I cooled off and started thinking a bit more clearly, I realized the potential challenges with such retribution. A teacher punching a student doesn’t exactly bode well for my professional track record. And I also couldn’t reconcile that action with my belief in the ineffectiveness of retributive violence in most situations in human life. I saw Jesus going berserk in the temple throwing over temples, and felt inspired to let my rage play out. But I also saw Jesus on the cross—the ultimate symbol of nonviolence and trust in God to be the ultimate judge of wrongs.

So I figured I should tell the police, or at the very least tell the school. Because, while this was the first time he’d struck Daisy, this was not an isolated incident, as he apparently has a bit of a temper and has previously physically hurt his girlfriend, Jill. But I didn’t. I didn’t tell anyone, other than some of my fellow foreign teachers. We said nothing of it to any authorities. Why not?

Well, it’s complicated. For one, domestic violence is just not taken as seriously here. I’m told by other foreign teachers who’ve been here for longer that the men would for the most part write it off a small dispute. Especially among older generations the attitudes toward male and female roles are such that this kind of abuse is not so rare, and women for the most part put up with it. (Forgive me, those who know a bit more about China, if this is an unfair generalization…it’s based off what I’ve been told and, to some extent, what I've seen in subtle ways here at the school where guys seem to have a bit of control over their girlfriends).

But beyond this, Daisy asked me not to say anything. She is actually breaking school rules by living off campus, as are her roommates, and if the school knew, not to mention her parents back home, she’d get in trouble. Beyond that, she fears for her class; they have a lot of conflict already, and Jill, her classmate, would likely hate her if she reported this abuse.

Which—I failed to mention—Jill is back with her boyfriend. It was ridiculously predictable. Only hours after my initial conversation with Daisy, in which she described how Jill had been crying a lot and really feeling empty, missing her boyfriend she’d only days before broken up with, he persuaded her to take her back. Sounds like a familiar story, doesn’t it? Apparently the boyfriend gave a sort of apology to Daisy about the table incident, asking Jill to apologize to Daisy for him. Not acceptable in my mind, but whatever.

Daisy has made some good but tough decisions, however. She is moving out of the apartment, and back into the dorms, and is distancing herself from Jill. It sounds as if Jill is the one that has caused the most hurt to Daisy, even more than the physical violence of the boyfriend. But Daisy really wants to just move on, and not talk about it anymore. She said to me in a text the other day: “the world will not stop turning because I was hurt.”

I felt a bit helpless. Not to sound like this situation is about me, but I felt responsible to do something and couldn’t see a clear solution. We, the foreign teachers, offer a great gift to many of these students in that they can trust us, knowing we will listen, support them, and not punish them for wrongdoing or condemn them in the way they feel many local teachers would. There’s certainly a line, however, when it’s not worth keeping a secret anymore when somebody could be seriously hurt. After much reflection and discussion with my fellow teachers, we feel all we can do is support the girls through listening, empathy, and verbal encouragement.

Well, that's mostly all. Once I moved on from macho visions of heroism, I at least desired to talk to the guy (through a translator), and let him know how I felt—that I had no respect for him, he’s a horrible person, or something similar. But I eventually felt that wasn’t best either—partially because Daisy really doesn’t want him to know that she has told her teacher, and partially because such words still felt violent. So I came up with another solution. I’m going to befriend the guy.

I’m not yet sure how this will play out, and the challenge of having the purest of motivations is a bit daunting. Meaning this: I was very angry with him, and naturally villainized him for hurting one of “my own.” But, as I eventually admitted to myself, he’s hurting too. He’s lacking something. As awful as it is what he has done and continues to do to his still-girlfriend, he needs healing as well. He needs a better understanding of what it means to be a man, a strong, loving, wise man who knows how to appropriately treat women.

I shared this idea—which really came out of nowhere, like an “aha” moment of clarity—with my fellow teachers. The response was mixed. Some understood my intentions, but were nervous about how it would play out, or the potential fallout (maybe he fears/suspects I know about everything and am planning to embarrass him or report him, and he snaps and hurts the girls again). I think there was a bit of a sentiment too of "why would you befriend the enemy," which brought intuitive resistance to some, even me, as I’m not sure if I liked my own idea.

But…I’ve come to a place where I’ve forgiven him (enough) to be able to have compassion for him. And because of this—because I’m not trying to be covert or sneaky and win him over and then throw a bag over his head and take him in a dark alley—I feel good about this. If I can’t help in any other way, directly, I can at least place myself in his life and hope through the validation—not of his actions but of his true self—that comes through being befriended by a foreigner here, that he will himself be in some way touched by the presence of Christ in me and be changed by it.

The boyfriend is a great dancer and offers some instruction to other students. I’ve joked before about getting some dance instruction, though with enough seriousness that I’ve thought it worth pursuing. So I’ve talked to a mutual friend who receives instruction from him, and asked him to ask his dance teacher if I can spend some time with them and learn dance from him. It’ll have to wait until March (new term), but hopefully this really manifests and some kind of relationship forms. And, as was important to me, I’ve received Daisy’s blessing on this. She understandably does not have any respect for him or desire to be around him, but knows I can do what I want and understands why I’d want to do this. I didn’t want her to feel betrayed by me, and it seems she’s not.

So that’s where this stands at the moment. I’m still in the middle of it all, so new clarity of perspective and right action may come with time. But I haven’t yet shared the most tender moment of all this. As I was following-up with Daisy the other day, she said that she just wants to move on from all this, reaffirming what she said in her text, referenced above—that she’s not that important in the big scheme of things. I respect her desire to move on. However, I don’t agree with the sentiment.

I often wonder if in America, our brand of Christianity encourages us to think too highly of ourselves. A lot of our language is very me-centered and self-esteem-driven, meant to empower the individual, and might often sound as if God is at our service, rather than the other way around. As much as we need to know our worth and that every individual matters to God, I think we could often use a healthy dose of disillusionment and be told that we really are pretty small and insignificant, when you consider the human population or even the size of the cosmos. There’s a balance to be held here, a tension not necessarily in need of resolution.

However, I think Daisy, and many others in this culture, need the opposite. I told Daisy I was uncomfortable with her feeling that the “world would keep turning” regardless of what happened to her. I told her that I was fine with her wanting to move on, as long she understands that what happens to her does matter, that she is incredibly valuable, and should never think that she should just accept wrong done to her because she is simply a cog in a machine, insignificant other than in her relation to the whole. I told her she was not worthless, and needed to know that.

She got silent, fought tears for a few moments, then gave up the fight and said, with her voice cracking, “thank you.” I gave her a quick hug. A moment later, she grabbed me again and gave me a much longer hug, holding me much more tightly this time. I think I told her what she needed to hear, what she’d been longing to hear from someone.

Friday, January 22, 2010

The semester ends

I’ve had a bit of a cold this past week. Though, it’s probably the most “convenient” time for it to happen, as the term has ended this week, with a fairly hectic few weeks behind me of preparing, administering, and grading exams, and several exciting weeks ahead, as I intend to spend some time over our five-week long winter holiday exploring a bit more of China.

It’s kind of a nice feeling to be wrapping up the semester. It feels like a significant accomplishment. After nearly five months in this role, I’ve watched my “natural teacher” find a platform, an opportunity, an outlet, a project, a call—whatever word captures it best. I’ve done a lot of things right, and felt praise and affirmation for my success. I’ve also done a lot of things wrong, which, in a way, I’m grateful for, since those tend, for me at least, to be what thrust me forward, compel me to improve, grow, and prepare for future challenges and opportunities with the wisdom gained from doing it wrong the first time.

Some of where I feel I need to grow as a teacher is technique; a lot of it may just be confidence. I’ve made what might be rookie mistakes: probably apologized a bit too much, probably wasn’t clear enough on expectations I thought I'd made clear, probably didn't fully know what some of my expectations even were, probably didn’t push students enough, probably wasn’t flexible enough to what the students needed, among other things.

Many of the challenges were also due not just to being an amateur but to the challenges inherent for all foreign teachers at this school, many stemming from issues of communication, language barrier, or different cultural expectations about a number of things: learning styles and how students expect to be taught; the often nebulous expectations of the department (a more complex matter); not enough resources and supplies to fulfill my vision of how my classes should go.

And, a lot of where I need to grow is simply in confidence. I expect the spring term to provide both a fresh start and a chance to build upon what I began this term. Grading exams sure thwarts such attempts at confidence though. I had a pretty big spread on all my exams, with some students excelling and some students failing (though no one failed the class). Why so many Fs? Maybe my exams were too difficult. Maybe I didn’t teach the material effectively. Maybe it was an English problem. Maybe there are some poor students in my class. Maybe they didn’t study enough. It’s easy to point the blame at myself, to feel somewhat responsible for my students’ shortcomings. Despite a number of my A-students who made significant improvements this term, it’s hard not to focus on those who struggled.

And even though I know a certain amount of detachment is important here—these are my students, not my children, and I don’t need to feel responsible for their destinies—it’s still a challenge. Because, I do care about my students, and want them to succeed. I suppose this is another lesson I’ll continue to learn through practice: it’s difficult to help people that don’t want to help themselves. I can only do so much; I can only play my part. I can't force anyone to learn or care about the material, though I can do my best to create the opportunity for learning to take place.

But for those that do want to “help themselves,” well…I guess I better do some serious semester-end reflection and figure out how I can be a better teacher second semester. I’ll be teaching the same 42 students (two cohorts) next term and am excited about this continuity, both for the benefit of their learning as well as for my relationships with them. All in all, the semester probably did exactly what it should have done for me: confirmed my abilities as a good teacher, but revealed several areas where growth is needed. A success, I'd say.

Enjoyed a few final dinners, ping-pong bouts, and mid-morning karaoke sessions with my students. A bit sad to say so many farewells this week, as students have all gone home as of this afternoon...a precursor of things to come at the end of June when I return home. But no need to go there yet.